, 2006
Table of Contents

If there is nothing available off the shelf, maybe we could design one right here in this forum.  Here's a "spec" for what I'm looking for:

• A solid stern mounting system suitable for retrofitting kayaks and canoes
• Lightest possible weight that still has the strength, stiffness, and toughness needed for the job
• Roughly 1.5 sqft for a single and 2.0 sqft for a double - below the waterline
• A foil shape optimized for 6 to 12 knots - but an average speed of only 4 knots
• A balanced rudder with some portion of the underwater profile forward of the leading edge
• Ability to raise or lower the rudder from the cockpit.  Note that this rudder does NOT need to come up over the deck like a typical kayak rudder.  It just needs to come up high enough to clear the beach
• A hold down system for high speed sailing.  Must be able to absorb shock when the rudder hits something
• A control mechanism that allows foot or hand control -- and self steering for at least a few minutes at a time
• Simplicity for repair in the field - although it should be tough enough to not need this often
• Plans to allow home building at a reasonable cost

WaterTribe Sailing Rudder (for a single):

• 8" chord
• 18" below the waterline
• NACA 0009 foil
• Assumes a vertical mount - custom stopper for fine tuning balance
• Balanced with 8% of the surface area forward of the pivot axis

You'll notice that this conforms with Wizard's recommendations and is about the size of my current rudder used on my Dreamcatcher.  Of course the main difference is the foil shape and balance.  My current blade has about 20% of the underwater area ahead of the pivot point.  I believe this is about right for a flat plate, but maybe not that much is needed for a foil.  Also, I liked Wizards reasoning for having the center of pressure about 1" behind the pivot point so the rudder will center itself.  So I'm starting with only 3/4" ahead of the pivot axis - not much. 

Right to Left - original Kruger blade, the Seaward Double Kayak blade, homemade aluminum blade, the WaterTribe Rudder Blade. 

I've tried all of these and a couple not shown.  The WaterTribe Rudder Blade is the best for sailing.  The Kruger blade is the best for paddling.

Why is it the WaterTribe blade is the best for sailing?  It has a foil shape and is much stiffer than the flat aluminum plate.  The foil shape provides lift.  The composite construction reduces weight and provides a stiffer blade which virtually eliminates vibration at high speeds and the blade doesn't lose its bite on the water due to flexing.

The aluminum blade with no weight.

The aluminum blade weighted with a 25 pound dumbbell.

The WaterTribe Blade with no weight.

The WaterTribe Blade weighted with a 25 pound dumbbell.

Side view of the rudder in its normal deployed position.  This is the position I use with just enough area in front of the pivot to provide positive feel for steering.

Rudder blade when fully forward.  The rudder may be balanced to your liking by adding a rudder stop as shown in the plans.

Rudder blade when fully raised.

Rudder blade removed for trailering.  NOTE:  Never trailer the boat with the blade installed. 

The uphaul and downhaul are attached using marine twine lashing.

Use a screwdriver or a twig to catch all the lashing loops (6 minimum) and make them all the same length.

Carefully thread the downhaul line thru all the lashing loops.

Tie a figure 8 stopper knot to the end of the downhaul line.

Snug up the downhaul line by attaching it to the bungee.

Repeat the procedure for the uphaul line.

This dent is caused by the uphaul when the rudder contacts the control head in the fully up position.  The blade needs some Kevlar reinforcement in this area.  However, the "damage" will not harm the blade.

The Kevlar strip on the leading edge of the rudder can be seen after the paint has been rubbed off by miles of dragging thru the sand and rocks of shallow bottoms.  This wear is normal.

The parts needed for the pivot pin which connects the rudder control head to the gudgeons.  Note the eye at the top of the pin which is vitally important.

The pivot pin is held in place by clevis pins.  The top pin is shown installed and the bottom pin is shown before installation.

This view more clearly shows how the clevis pin should be formed so that it remains installed.

A close up view of the pivot pin installed.  Note how the uphaul and downhaul are routed thru the eye of the pivot pin. 

The rear view of the rudder control head mounted.

This shows the control lines leading forward: uphaul, downhaul, hand steering, foot steering.

A final top view of the mounted rudder.